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Proper venting can prevent mold growth

March 8th, 2010

Mold
The most significant problem of an improper Bathroom ventilation is the potential growth of mold in attics. Mold may appear to be several colors but can never be identified with certainty without being tested by a professional lab. Health issues caused by mold are most times related to high concentrations of mold spores in the indoor air. Mold release these spores when they reproduce. Every home has mold in some form or another. Moisture contents of about 20% or more in surfaces will cause mold to propagate. Inhaling spores can cause health issues in those with asthma or allergies, and can cause significant health problems in those with respiratory issues or compromised immune systems.

Most Home Inspectors in New Jersey will refer to mold as a mold like substance or a type of microbial growth. Most New Jersey home inspectors do not test for mold and leave mold testing to professional environmental companies. Home inspections are not mold inspections.

In order to grow, mold requires several conditions to be present in the area.
Oxygen
Temperatures between 45° F and 85° F
Food. (includes a wide variety of materials found in homes)
Moisture

If insufficient levels of any of these requirements exist, all mold growth will stop and fungi will go dormant.

Even though mold growth may take place in the attic, mold spores can be sucked into the other living areas of the home by low air pressure. Low air pressure is usually created by the exhaust of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms, dryers, kitchens and heating equipment.

Improper Ventilation
Must terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the home

Termination points should contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry.

Be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder.

Be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements.

Above all else, a bathroom vent fans should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor to the exterior. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper venting that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues.

Bathroom ventillation fans

March 5th, 2010

Bathroom vent fans are designed to discharge moist air to the home’s exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof line.

Fan Function
The fan may be controlled in one of several ways:
- Most bathroom vent fans are operated by a conventional wall switch.
- Sometimes a timer type switch may be use to operate the fan.
- A humidistat can be installed to turn the fan on and off if high levels of bathroom humidity are detected.

During a home inspection in New Jersey the home inspector will check for the operation of the bathroom vent fan and make sure the vent fan is discharging to the exterior of the home.

Vent fans can be impeded by dust build up so they should be cleaned often. Particles of Home inspectors should comment on dirty fan covers and fan blades. Vent fans should be installed in all bathrooms. This includes bathrooms with windows, because windows will not be opened during the winter. .

Defects
The following conditions may indicate inadequate bathroom ventilation:
Moisture stains on walls or ceilings.
Mold on walls or ceilings.
Peeling paint or wallpaper.
High levels of humidity.

The most common defect related to bathroom vent fans is improper termination of the discharge pipe. Vents must exhaust to the exterior of the home. The most common improper terminations locations are:
In the attic, beneath the insulation.
New Jersey home inspectors need to look. The discharge pipe may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed.

Improperly terminated bathroom vent systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom; you have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes poorly-installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections.

Ducts which leak or terminate in attics can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moist air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation or other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health or decay problems from mold, or to damage materials such as drywall.

Electrical panel inspections

March 4th, 2010

Electrical panel boxes contain circuit breakers or fuses that act as over current protection devices for the electrical circuits that are installed in the home. If electrical current exceeds the capacity of the wire to carry it safely the circuit breaker will trip and stop electrical current from flowing. This can help to avoid a house fire and electrical shock.

One of the most dangerous aspects of performing home inspections in New Jersey is removing the electrical panel box cover. There have been instances where home inspectors have been seriously hurt or even killed.

Home Inspectors in New Jersey must be cognizant that the electrical panel box inspection is dangerous. Home inspectors must be calm and practice careful deliberate movements. Home inspection clients should never remove the electrical panel box covers themselves. Removal of the panel box covers should be left to trained professionals.

Before the cover is removed Home Inspectors in New Jersey should establish the following:
Are the floors wet? Home inspectors should never touch an electrical panel if there is a wet floor.
Does the panel box appear wet, is there water dripping from the panel? If the panel is wet then the box should not be opened.
Is the panel box rusted. Rusted panels are an indication that moisture problems may exist.
Home inspectors should make sure that they have an escape path away from the panel box.

New Jersey home inspectors should check for the following defective conditions during an electrical panel inspection: (not an all inclusive list)

Lack of clearance. According to the 2008 National Electrical Code, residential electrical panels require at least a 3-foot clearance or working space in front, 30 inches of width, and a minimum headroom clearance of 6 feet, or the height of the equipment, whichever is greater. If obstacles would make it unsafe for you to inspect the service panel, you should not inspect it.

One of the most important aspects of the electrical inspection is to identify the presence of aluminum branch circuit wiring

Panel box cover screws must have blunt ends so they do not damage the wires inside the panel box. Look for wires that pass too closely to the screw openings inside the electrical panel.

Home inspectors should look for proper sizing of circuit breakers.

Inspectors should look for rusting or corrosion in the panel box which is a sign that water infiltration may be taking place.

Electrical panels manufactured by Zinsco or Federal Pacific Electric (FPE). These panels have a poor reputation and further evaluation by a qualified electrical contractor is recommended. Zinsco panels can generally be identified by a blue and silver “Zinsco” label inside the panel, and an embossed “Magnetrip” label at the top of the panel face.

Window bars and egress safety

March 3rd, 2010

Window bars are usually metal bars installed over windows in order to help keep intruders out. The problem is that window bars can also prevent escape from the home in the event of an emergency. There are roughly 25-30 people a year that are injured or killed by the inability to escape a residence due to the installation of window bars. The risk of unwanted entry into the residence is greater in the minds of home owners then the inability to quickly escape the home in the event of an emergency.

There are certain positives associated with window bars:
They can be a deterrent for potential buglers. For the most part they are used in lower level and basement windows. Window bars can provide a measure of security to the home or building owner. An other positive is that they can help prevent young children or infants from falling out of windows.

There are some very distinct disadvantages of installing window bars:
Window bars can block the exit for residents during an emergency. The occupants may feel secure from burglary, but they have very much limited their means of egress. It is possible for residents to become trapped behind window bars while trying to escape from an intruder who has managed to enter the home or building. Window bars can also at times block the way in for fire fighters. Houses equipped with window bars can potentially decrease the home’s value. Window bars can make an area appear insecure to potential home buyers.

According to the International Residential Code, basements and bedrooms should have at least one operable escape window. Windows that are equipped with bars and which are intended for emergency egress should have a quick-release mechanism installed.

Where window bars are installed in windows that are part of a building’s means of egress, the IRC requires that they be equipped with a quick-release mechanism that complies with the following requirements:
- It should not require any special tools to release the window bars.
- The mechanism should be able to be operated with relatively little force.
- Operation of the mechanism should not require special knowledge.

Although beyond the scope of a New Jersey Home Inspection, Home inspectors may want to test release mechanisms to make sure that they comply with the IRC’s requirements. Even if the mechanism appears functional, it is possible that its ability to operate has become compromised by rust, paint, or some other factor. New Jersey home inspectors should call out any hindrances to the release mechanism’s functionality as a safety defect.

Several ways to use home inspection reports

March 2nd, 2010

Home inspection reports can be used for several different purposes.

Potential buyers can consider the reported conditions of the home to make decisions on whether they can afford to properly maintain the home. If the home inspection report indicates that the roof is old and the boiler is old there may be some significant expenses coming up for the potential buyer. Buyers can sometimes use the home inspection report to negotiate corrective actions or replacement to be performed by the sellers. Sometimes the selling price can be lowered because of the findings of the home inspection report. Sellers can also obtain a home inspection and use it to disclose potential issues to the buyers. Sellers use the home inspection report to identify and correct significant defects that could interfere with a buyer’s desire to submit a contract to buy the property. Buyers can use the home inspection report as a to-do list for maintaining the home and property. Buyers/Sellers can use the home inspection report to communicate to professionals the nature of the defects to obtain estimates for repair or to arrange for repairs or replacements. Buyers can sometimes use the inspection report as a method to withdraw from the contract to purchase the home when certain types of undisclosed defects are reported.

Buyers and sellers should consider obtaining inspection reports only from professional, full-time home inspectors. Always use New Jersey home inspectors who abide by a Code of Ethics and Standards of Practice, and who continually enhance their knowledge and skills with regular Continuing Education courses.

Backdrafting and home inspections

February 28th, 2010

Back drafting is the condition where flue gas enters the living space rather then exit through the venting system of a combustion appliance. The majority of heating appliances and water heaters use room air rather then draft fans. Back drafting is one of the conditions that a professional home inspector will look for while performing your home inspection.

All heating appliances have a smoke or vent pipe which is used to discharge the products of combustion. Exhaust gas is hot and generally is lighter then room air so the gas exists through the flue with little problem. Back drafting can occur with a loss of indoor air pressure. This reduction of air pressure can be caused by operating a fireplace or exhaust fans in the home. With the loss of air pressure exhaust gas can enter the living space. Improperly configured smoke pipes and obstructed chimneys or smoke pipes can also cause the back drafting condition.

There are several things that home inspectors will look for to try to determine if back drafting is occurring.
- Combustion gas may leave a dark residue on the top of the boiler or water heater cabinet. The existence of soot is an indication of back drafting.

- A carbon monoxide detector can be used to determine if back drafting is occurring.

- A home inspector can hold a lighter under the draft diverter to determine if there is draw or pull to pull the flame upward.

- An inspector can use a smoke pen or stick to see whether it gets sucked into the duct or if it spills back into the room.

Some inspectors will turn on all the exterior drafting appliances to simulate a worst case scenario in the home.

Several types of drafting:
The majority of back drafting is caused by atmospheric draft. Exhaust gases rise through the smoke pipe only by the force of convection, which might not be strong enough to counter the pull from dips in indoor air pressure.

Induced draft: This type of system has a fan that creates a draft. The potential for back drafting is reduced because the draft fan is usually strong enough to overcome any competing pull from an indoor air-pressure drop.

Sealed draft: The combustion and venting systems are completely sealed off from indoor air. Combustion air is drawn in from the outdoors through a pipe that is designed for that purpose. The potential for back drafting is almost eliminated because the rate of ventilation is not influenced by indoor air pressure, and the vented gas has no pathway into the home.

Keep garage fires from spreading

February 26th, 2010

Garage fires can occur, There are measures that you can take to limit the possibility of a fire in your attached garage from spreading to your home. At least you will have more time to escape the home in the event of a fire. A good home inspector will look for these necessary safety measures.

What are the usual causes of garage fires
-Working on cars or other machinery can cause sparks and ignite a fire
- Sometimes sources of ignition are located in the garage. The sources of ignition can be a boiler or water heater. Flammable gas vapors can reach these ignition sources and ignite.
- Gas leaks from cars and other equipment
- Other flammable liquids can ignite

Here are several tips in how to keep a garage fire from spreading:
-Make sure your attic access door if located in the garage is fire rated. Or at a minimum install fire rated drywall over the thin wood hatch in order to help improve its fire rating.
- Both the walls and the garage ceiling should be fire rated.
- Keep clutter and storage to a minimum inside the garage. All flammable items such as gas and kerosene should be kept elsewhere. A detach shed works well to store these types of materials. Never keep oil soaked rags in the garage. These rags can combust when enough heat builds up.
- Install a sufficient number of electrical outlets. Avoid using thin lamp cords and power strips. Make sure the cord to the automatic opener is designed to accommodate the electrical demands placed on it from the garage door motor.
- Make sure the door from the garage into the living space is fire rated. A thin door will allow fire to spread from the garage more quickly then if a solid core fire door is in place. These doors should not have windows or pet entries. You should avoid installing a storm door with glass windows because the glass can shatter and cause injury if there is an explosion.
- Consider installing a self closer on your fire rated door. A self closer will help make sure the door is always in the closed position.
- All gaps around your fire rated door should be sealed in order to help keep fire and smoke out.
- Never store propane gas tanks indoors. Tanks can explode if temperatures get high enough.

There are plenty of items that a qualified home inspector will look for to make sure that your garage is as safe as it can be. Taking simple measures can allow you the time needed to exit the home in the event of a fire.

Adjustible steel columns in homes

February 25th, 2010

Adjustable steel columns, also known as screw jacks, are hollow steel columns designed to provide temporary structural support. An attached threaded screw mechanism is used to raise and lower the height of the post. They are usually found in basements. Screw jacks can be made as multi-section assembles, sometimes called telescopic steel columns, or as single-piece columns.

All support columns must be larger then three inches. Temporary columns smaller than three inches violate the IRC, although they are not necessarily defective. A 2½-inch column may be sufficient to support the structural load above it, while a 4-inch post can buckle if the load exceeds the structural capacity of the post. Structural engineers, not home inspectors, should evaluate whether adjustable columns properly sized. The post must be protected by rust-inhibitive paint. The column should be straight. The maximum lateral displacement between the top and bottom of the column should not be more then one inch. The column should also not flex or bend at its center point. Bending or flexing is an indication that the column cannot bear the weight above it. The column is not mechanically connected to the floor. Inspectors may not be able to confirm whether a connection between the post and the floor exists if this connection has been covered by concrete. The post should be mechanically connected to the beam above to provide additional resistance against lateral displacement. No more then three inches of the screw thread is exposed

Home inspectors should inspect adjustable steel columns for problems, although a structural engineer may be required to confirm serious issues.

Anti tip devices for ranges

February 24th, 2010

Anti-tip devices are metal brackets engineered to prevent freestanding ranges and stoves from tipping over. They are usually screwed into the wall behind the range, and are included in all new range installation kits. A range or stove that does not have the bracket installed may tip over if weight is pushed on its open door, such as a small child leaning on the open door. A falling range can cause serious injury to an adult or child.

These types of safety devices should always be installed. Residents can contact the dealer or builder who installed their range and request installation of the safety devise. The brackets can be installed by homeowners and can be purchased at most hardware centers or ordered from the manufacturer.

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) data indicates there were 143 incidents caused by ranges tipping over from 1980 to 2006. Of the 33 accidents that resulted in death, most of those victims were young children. A small child may stand on an open range and accidentally cause the entire unit to fall on top of him/her. Older folks, may be injured while using the range for support while cleaning.

In response to this danger, the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) created standards in 1991 that require all ranges manufactured after 1991 to be capable of remaining upright while supporting 250 pounds of weight on their open doors. Manufacturers’ instructions also require that anti-tip devices provided be installed.

While performing your New Jersey home inspection I will be looking for this very important safety device.

Simple steps to save on energy bills

February 18th, 2010

Improving your existing heating system may be less expensive and advantageous then buying an entire new heating system. Doing regular maintenance and adding small upgrades can make your older heating system more efficient and more cost effective to operate. Preventative and regular maintenance is the most important thing that you can do to make sure your heating equipment operate efficiently.

Some of the routine maintenance items that should be performed are to clean and tune your oil or gas burners. If you have oil fired heating the unit should be serviced once per calendar year. If you have a gas fired heating unit it should be serviced at least once every two years. If soot accumulates the heat exchangers efficiency can be significantly diminished. This is particularity true with an oil furnace.

Another simple but very important step in maintaining hot air furnace is to change the filter on a regular basis. For most furnaces this means replacing the filter once per month. Some hot air units have high efficiency and electronic air cleaners. Check with the manufacturer for the care and maintenance of these specialized air filters to help keep them filtering air a peek efficiency.

If the ducts in the home are not tightly sealed energy will be lost. Duct leaks contribute to a very large part of the overall energy loss associated with forced air heating system. Investing a few hundred dollars in duct repairs and maintenance can return big dividends in energy cost savings. Also keep the furnace blower motor and fan blades clean.

Look for soot, corrosion and rust around the area of the furnace, rust and soot may be a sign of a major malfunction and immediate service should be performed by a professional HVAC technician.

Insulate ducts that are located in unheated spaces. By the time the heated air flows to the interior rooms much of the heat is lost. Installing insulation around the exposed ducts in the unheated space will keep heat loss to a minimum and help you save significantly on energy costs.